Like I said, Panerai, such as many other watchmaking brands and for many different motives, had a discontinuous history. The business began in Florence (Firenze) in 1860 where Giovanni Panerai setup a watchmaker shop and marketed marine gear. In the early part of the prior century Panerai’s roots in horology were cemented as they became the supplier of watches to the Italian Navy. At that time, Italian frogmen would utilize their watches to time and synchronize attacks and in some instances even mount torpedoes that they’d navigate to deliver down docked enemy ships. Having a private time tool that you could use and see underwater was a must for all these operations and Panerai provided just that with their large watches which comprised a patented luminescent sterile substance: radiomir.Working using Rolex, Panerai helped create a number of the first water resistant timepieces. Earlier Panerai models even included Rolex movements… However, possibly because of Italy’s loss in World War II or on account of the quartz crisis of the 70’s, or perhaps a bit of both, the brand pretty much disappeared… What occurs next is well recorded, but suffice to say that American celebrity and noted watch enthusiast and collector Sylvester Stallone gave the new boost of life by wearing a Panerai in one of his films and by wearing the watches on the red carpet and through interviews. What followed was the purchase of the company by the Richemont Group and its flourishing, aided by the fanatical Paneristis and internet forums. Jake’s Panerai World website has a thorough account of this Panerai history, for instance, Rolex connection, that I urge the curious reader peruse for details and examples.
On top of all that, the PAM 321 includes the in-house P.9002 automatic motion that contains some interesting and useful features. To begin with, the PAM 321 is C.O.S.C certified and features an exhibition caseback that reveals the 3/4 plate motion decorated with blue screws and rubies. The ribbon isn’t too done which works well for the main tool temperament of this watch. The motion is a GMT at which the hour hands (as soon as the crown is released and pulled to place one) will shift quickly in leaping fashion.Interestingly, the GMT hand is coloured the same as the dial and is lean such that by moving the hour hand above it, it is possible to conceal the GMT hand and also convert the PAM 321 into a non-GMT watch. This is unlike what is usually possible with other GMT watches where the GMT hand makes one revolution of the dial in one day. However, one drawback, emphasizing this is not a “real” GMT watch, is that you don’t readily know if the GMT hand is signaling AM or PM. Some Panerai models, e.g., PAM 270 and PAM 335, include an added AM/PM indicator utilizing the P.2003 movement.Two added features of this movement would be the rapid reset seconds and the 3-day power reserve indicator. To begin with, by releasing the crown and pulling it to the second position, you can move the minutes hand along with the GMT hand. But what’s cool is that once you pull the crown to that second position, the seconds hand instantly moves to zero and the motion ceases. This allows you to precisely place the current time to some reference time. No more do you need to await the hand to achieve 60 so as to prevent it and set it accurately. The P.9002 movement does this for you.
Eventually, the PAM 321 includes a 72 hour power reserve with a sign at 4 o’clock that utilizes a normal Panerai lumed hand (similar to the flip side) moving across a marked semicircle signaling zero to 72 hours. The index interferes slightly with the GMT hand once the lumed arrow head travels across it, however, that is a small price to pay to quickly know that you ought to wear or end the watch. I also discovered the energy reserve indicator to be accurate, showing exactly 36 hours staying when I completely charged the opinion and left it on my Wolf Designs watch winder with a 36 hours beginning delay.As mentioned I wore the PAM 321 at a variety of contexts: at the pool; interacting; at parties; as well as snorkeling and skin diving at the beach. What became apparent after that week is that I think I finally “got” what makes Paneristis so angry about their Panerai watches. It is a fire that develops from having a watch with exceptional style that’s flexible (multitude of accessible third party straps that may be changed easily), which is legible (simple, super clean dial and fonts with beautiful lume), and that has a solid presence on the wrist that’s tough to match with any other watch.With such a solid cult-like after, the requirement for Panerai watches keeps getting more powerful with some models selling out completely after they are introduced. The PAM 347 that’s exactly the exact same version but using the bracelet is priced at $10,600. Since the bracelet is hard to find and retails at the Panerai store for $2,400 (when you can find it!) , I would recommend getting the PAM 347 if you enjoy steel bracelets or are considering getting a bracelet later on. Panerai watches are also well-known for their sumptuous leather straps and the Luminor GMT PAM01088 is no exception. Presented on a rich brown leather strap with a steel tang buckle, the Luminor GMT is wonderfully comfy to wear and also a joy to check at. There’s even an additional black rubber strap when the wearer decides to go for a dive or just wishes to bring a fresh look to the watch.
Though the rotor is skeletonized, much of the movement’s inner workings are hidden because a large plate covers the entire mechanism but for the equilibrium and its cock. A closer look shows a sickle-shaped window for your escape wheel and a different window through which one can observe the pawl of the automatic cooling system. The rear view also contains the power-reserve screen: a crimson field comes into view through the aperture whenever the energy supply shrinks to a critical level. The rotor, plate and balance cock are decorated with a wave pattern. Combined with the grim filling of this engraved lettering, it creates an attractively technical appearance that matches this watch total styling well. The glistening heads of these silvery screws also look great, as do a number of the additional screws, which have been thermally blued. Some of the edges are beveled, others equally beveled and polished: these look very nice, although they’re a bit narrow. The cover plate to the balance, which has been stamped from sheet metal and has not been thoroughly polished, is less impressive.The bidirectionally winding rotor utilizes pawls and runs on low-wear ceramic ball bearings. It supplies power to the barrels, which (since the watch’s name indicates) collect enough electricity to keep the watch running for 72 hours. A total of 227 parts — such as 29 stones for ideal reduction of friction — comprise the movement. Four screws along the rim provide the remedy to the problem of finely adjusting the equilibrium with no need for an index tail. Until a few decades ago, this detail has been reserved for watches in the top echelons of haute horlogerie.
|Model||Luminor GMT Automatic|
|Bracelet material||Crocodile skin|
|Location||United Kingdom, London|
|Price||£4,030 (= $5,528)|
|Case diameter||44 mm|
|Water resistance||30 ATM|
|Bracelet material||Crocodile skin|
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|This Panerai has undergone a thorough inspection of water resistance, accuracy, functionality and condition to determine the level of reconditioning required to meet our strict standards. It has also been referenced against technical documents and manufacturer records where available to ensure authenticity and a clean history. This is a pre-owned Panerai Luminor GMT PAM00088. It has a 44mm Steel case, a Black Baton dial, a Alligator – Brown bracelet, and is powered by an Automatic movement. The case has a OP66xxxxxxxxxxx serial making it approximately 11 years. It is supplied with box and a comprehensive 12 month Watchfinder warranty.|