Finally, the PAM 321 includes a 72 hour power reserve with an indicator at 4 o’clock that utilizes a typical Panerai lumed hand (similar to the seconds hand) moving across a marked semicircle indicating zero to 72 hours. The indicator interferes slightly with the GMT hand when the lumed arrow head travels across it, but that’s a small cost to pay to quickly understand you ought to wear or end the watch. Additionally, I found the energy reserve indicator to be accurate, showing exactly 36 hours remaining when I completely charged the watch and left it in my Wolf Designs watch winder using a 36 hours beginning delay.As mentioned I wore the PAM 321 in various contexts: at the pool; interacting; at celebrations; as well as snorkeling and skin diving at the shore. What became apparent after that week is that I believe I finally “got” what makes Paneristis so mad in their Panerai watches. It is a passion that develops from using a watch with exceptional style that is versatile (myriad of available third party straps which may be altered easily), which is legible (simple, super clean dial and fonts using amazing lume), and that has a solid presence on the wrist that is difficult to match with any other watch.With such a solid cult-like after, the demand for Panerai watches keeps getting more powerful with some versions selling out completely after they are introduced. The PAM 347 that’s exactly the exact same model but using the bracelet is priced at $10,600. Considering that the bracelet is hard to find and retails at the Panerai shop for $2,400 (when you can find it!) , I’d recommend getting the PAM 347 if you like steel bracelets or would be considering getting a bracelet in the future. Panerai watches are also well-known for their sumptuous leather straps and the Luminor GMT PAM01088 is no exception. Presented on a rich brown leather strap with a steel tang buckle, the Luminor GMT is wonderfully comfy to wear and a joy to check at. There’s even another black rubber strap when the wearer decides to go for a dive or simply wants to bring a fresh look to the watch.
Our speed test showed that Panerai has done a good job of finely adjusting the movement. Though it gained eight seconds on the wrist, its average gain on the time consuming machine proved to be a mere 3.7 minutes. The best deviation among the various positions (five seconds) is quite respectable, also. The amplitude remained full of all positions.For a watch with a fabrication motion, the price is reasonable, just slightly more expensive than the earlier versions that included ETA movements. Few watches together with in-house movements in this price range offer a similar selection of functions.There are reasons why people wear and love their watches. Perhaps their watch has some emotional connection to an event in their past, maybe it was a gift, and if you’re like us (watch nerds) you love having a helpful mechanical toy onto your wrist which likewise includes style. While I usually readily understand my fellow watch enthusiasts, I’ll be the first to admit that initially I didn’t know precisely the subgroup of watch nerds that are very frankly fanatics of this Officine Panerai brand, otherwise called the “Paneristis”.If you are not familiar with this particular strain of watch lover, only spend a couple of minutes perusing the Paneristi forum and that I pretty much guarantee that you will leave the site astonished, maybe perplexed, by the genuine enthusiastic and frequent posts from Paneristis all over the world. They talk about every version, post movies, speculate on new versions, provide advice to newbies, and even regularly throw parties (all over the planet) where fellow Paneristis come for a fantastic time, make friends, and of course show off their beloved Panerai models.
Though the rotor is skeletonized, a lot of the movement’s inner workings are hidden because a large plate covers the entire mechanism but for the balance and its manhood. A closer look reveals a sickle-shaped window for the escape wheel and a different window through which one can see the pawl of the automatic cooling system. The back view also includes the power-reserve screen: a red field comes into view through the aperture when the energy supply shrinks to a critical level. Combined with the grim filling of the engraved lettering, it generates an attractively technical look that matches this watch total styling nicely. The glistening heads of these silvery screws also appear great, as do some of the additional screws, which have been thermally blued. A few of the edges are beveled, others both beveled and polished: these look very nice, although they’re a bit narrow. The cover plate for the equilibrium, which was stamped from sheet metal and hasn’t been thoroughly polished, is somewhat less impressive.The bidirectionally winding rotor utilizes pawls and runs on low-wear ceramic ball bearings. It supplies power to the barrels, which (as the watch’s name indicates) amass enough energy to keep the watch running for 72 hours. A total of 227 components — such as 29 jewels for ideal decrease in friction — include the motion. Four screws across the rim supply the solution to the problem of finely adjusting the balance with no need for an indicator tail. Until a couple of years ago, this detail has been earmarked for watches at the top echelons of haute horlogerie.
As I mentioned, Panerai, such as many other watchmaking brands and also for a variety of reasons, had a discontinuous history. The business started in Florence (Firenze) in 1860 where Giovanni Panerai set up a watchmaker store and sold marine gear. In the first part of the previous century Panerai’s origins in horology were cemented as they became the provider of watches for the Italian Navy. At that moment, Italian frogmen would utilize their watches to time and synchronize attacks and in some instances even mount torpedoes they’d navigate to deliver down docked enemy ships. Possessing a private time instrument you could use and watch submerged was crucial for all these operations and Panerai provided just that with their large watches which included a patented luminescent radioactive material: radiomir.Working with Rolex, Panerai helped create a number of the initial water resistant timepieces. Previously Panerai models even included Rolex movements… But possibly due to Italy’s loss in World War II or due to the quartz crisis of the 70’s, or maybe a bit of both, the newest pretty much disappeared… What happens next is well documented, but suffice to say American actor and noted watch collector and enthusiast Sylvester Stallone gave the new boost of life by wearing a Panerai in one of his movies and by sporting the watches on the red carpet and through interviews. What followed was the purchase of the company by the Richemont Group and its flourishing, aided by the obsessive Paneristis and internet forums. Jake’s Panerai World website has a thorough account of the Panerai history, for instance, Rolex connection, I urge the interested reader peruse for information and illustrations.
Whilst using the PAM 321 for snorkeling or diving is using this watch at the context of its historic roots, the ability to easily, quickly, and just change straps means that I can alter the personality of my PAM 321 within a minute to match my outfit or the current situation. The provided alligator strap is excellent for office work while the rubber works well for the sea or the pool… but the attractiveness of possessing Panerai watches is acquiring third party straps while at precisely the exact same time completely modifying your watch.There are literally 1000’s of aftermarket belts readily offered for many Panerai models. They are sold from all around the world, some starting as low as two or three dollars and a few reaching into the $1K range. The materials vary from calf leather (fresh or distressed and everything in between) into alligator and crocodile, and to more exotic leathers such as stingray, reptiles, snakes, ostrich, and a lot more. The available colours are multitudinous and the comfort level will fluctuate with the material and structure. For mine, I was able to acquire a pair of distressed calf leather Large Belt straps from TimeRepublic vendor on eBay for about $60 each (with shipping) and with a pre-V (pre-Vendome) buckle included.And naturally, this isn’t mentioning official Panerai straps and bracelets that you can also buy. At the Panerai shop in Bal Harbour, FL, for more money, I was able to bring the legendary assolutamente deployment strap to my collection as well as a rare brushed stainless steel bracelet. As previously mentioned, each strap only completely changes the opinion like I had purchased a new opinion. This is also from remarks of friends and family during my vacation where I used the opinion daily. With the stainless steel bracelet, I essentially converted my PAM 321 into a PAM 347 because the bracelet is the sole difference between the two models.
All in all, and despite its large 44-millimeter diameter, the Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT is quite comfy to wear, although the lugs don’t curve very far down, which gives this significant watch a tendency to slide back and forth along the wrist. Fortunately, our concerns which the crown protector might poke into the back of the wrist have been unfounded.The crown shield’s hinged lever also does not hinder the operation of this watch. It can be immediately opened, and it is easy to turn the large, easy-to-grasp crown while the watch is strapped to the wrist, making all the setting works user-friendly. The mainspring can be manually wound when the crown is pulled out to its original extracted position; the hour hand for the local time could be reset in hourly increments when the crown is in its second position — a very practical feature for those who often travel beyond their home time zone. The date display jumps forward or backward accordingly, so readjusting it’s simple and quick, despite the absence of a real quick-adjustment mechanism.When you pull on the crown all the way out to its third place, the seconds hand on the subdial at 9 o’clock will race back to zero, the balance will stop oscillating, and the hours and minutes can be reset in the usual way. Afterward, you may simply swing the protective lever on the crown and use it to press it back into its secured position. Its recurrence triggers the seconds hand to restart moving. Synchronizing this view using an audible time sign or a radio clock is very simple thanks to this zero-return mechanism for the seconds hand, also employed by A. Lange & Söhne and discovered on vintage Panerai watches. Like the return-to-zero function for the elapsed-time palms of a chronograph, it’s triggered by means of a lever within the motion, acting on a return-to-zero heart mounted onto the staff of the hand.
Though the somewhat romantic background with the brand new Hollywood tie-in would make for a fantastic movie, it doesn’t guarantee a great watch. I truly wanted to know what was so particular about Panerai and its watches, especially after seeing my cousin Alain, a medical doctor in Miami, and a person I genuinely admire, always sporting one. There must be a deeper set of reasons that some guys (as well as gals) are attracted to the new and become obsessed with that. After wearing my PAM 321 for weekly straight during part of my winter holiday, I think I broke the mystery… but first let me clarify the PAM 321 along with the common design language that it shares with Panerai models.Similar to a lot of powerful watchmakers, Panerai follows a common style and layout language for all of its watches. The most common characteristics are: a huge pillow instance, highly legible and easy dial with super-legible font, along with a flexible assortment of straps.On that my PAM 321, the case is the so-called 1950 instance which is a cushion case formed from a solid block of brushed stainless steel. The crown is glistening steel and is shielded by the unique-to-Panerai crown shielding device which helps to make the eye watertight. Basically it’s a half-crescent crown guard (tight seal apparatus) of brushed steel which entirely covers the crown except for a small lever that when pulled (with finger or nail) releases the crown. It’s an ingenious device which has become a defining visual differentiator for the brand and that’s now trademarked by Panerai since the 1960 patent rights have expired…
As I mentioned, Panerai, such as several other watchmaking brands and for a variety of reasons, had a discontinuous history. The business started in Florence (Firenze) in 1860 where Giovanni Panerai set up a watchmaker shop and marketed maritime equipment. At the first part of the previous century Panerai’s origins in horology were cemented as they became the supplier of watches to the Navy. At that time, Italian frogmen would utilize their watches to time and synchronize attacks and in certain cases even mount torpedoes that they would browse to bring down docked enemy boats. Having a private time tool that you could wear and see submerged was a must for these operations and Panerai provided just that with their big watches which included a patented luminescent radioactive material: radiomir.Working using Rolex, Panerai helped develop some of the first water resistant timepieces. Previously Panerai models even comprised Rolex movements… But maybe because of Italy’s loss in World War II or on account of the quartz crisis of the 70’s, or maybe a bit of both, the newest pretty much disappeared… What happens next is well documented, but suffice to say that American actor and noticed watch collector and enthusiast Sylvester Stallone gave the new boost of life by wearing a Panerai in one of his films and by sporting the watches on the red carpet and during interviews. What followed was the purchase of the company by the Richemont Group and its flourishing, aided by the obsessive Paneristis and online forums. Jake’s Panerai World blog has a comprehensive account of the Panerai history, including the Rolex connection, I urge the interested reader peruse for information and examples.
Like many Panerai watches, the PAM 321 is rather big at 44mm and sits high at 19mm. It is not for smaller guys though I have seen various images on the Paneristi forum of what appears to be smaller guys and even girls wearing 44mm as well as larger Panerai versions… For me personally, in my nearly 7 1/2 inch wrist, the 44mm case seats perfectly as the lugs are curved without overpowering my wrist. This is the end result of the sandwich dial structure where the hour mark along with the 12, 6, and 9 hour marks are full of Panerai luminescent that just excels with a little bit of charge. Historically, Panerai has had various innovations in that area, including utilizing radium-based luminescent, which was replaced by the non-radioactive luminor substance which gives the show its moniker. The legibility is indeed good that just using it during the day, you will find all night legibility… so it’s the perfect watch to sit down on your night table. Aiding in that legibility is a well domed sapphire crystal on top of the grandfather clock-like simple dial with the Panerai special font that can be read from a distance.Using the added tools (strap change and flat screwdriver) I can quickly switch to the provided black rubberized strap. While not a true diver (no rotating bezel, even though it is 300m water resistant) I had no difficulties with it in the pool and in the beach where I used it, to the dismay of my brother Laurent, as my preferred snorkeling watch as we hunted, off the seas of Montrouis, to get lionfishes (Pterois)–a predatory species that has invaded the waters of the Atlantic.
Though the somewhat intimate history with the new Hollywood tie-in would make for a great movie, it does not guarantee a fantastic watch. I truly wanted to understand what was so particular about Panerai and its watches, especially after seeing my cousin Alain, a medical physician in Miami, and someone I truly admire, always sporting one. There has to be a deeper set of motives that some men (as well as gals) are drawn to the brand and become obsessed with it. After wearing my PAM 321 for a week direct during part of my winter vacation, I think I finally cracked the puzzle… but first let me describe the PAM 321 and the common design language it shares with Panerai models.Similar to a lot of powerful watchmakers, Panerai follows a common design and design language for each of its watches. The most common traits are: a large pillow instance, highly legible and simple dial with super-legible ribbon, and a flexible range of straps.On that my PAM 321, the case is the so-called 1950 instance which is a cushion case formed from a solid block of brushed stainless steel. The crown is polished steel and is protected by the unique-to-Panerai crown shielding apparatus which can help to make the watch watertight. Basically it is a half-crescent crown guard (tight seal apparatus) of brushed steel that completely covers the crown except for a little lever that if pulled (with nail or finger) sparks the crown. Once released, the crown can then be turned and pulled. It is an ingenious device that has become a defining visual differentiator for its brand and that’s now trademarked by Panerai because the 1960 patent rights have died…
|Model||Luminor 1950 10 Days GMT|
|Bracelet material||Crocodile skin|
|Location||United States of America, Georgia, Atlanta|
|Availability||Ready to ship in 3-5 days|
|Bracelet material||Crocodile skin|
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